However, one thing I learned throughout the process was how much one peel can vary from the next depending on skin type, skin goals, and the specific acids used. Almost immediately, my initial assumption that chemical peels were one-size-fits-all and likely bound for tragedy was completely debunked—and I became a believer. The experience also piqued my interest and inspired me to learn more about the different types of peels and the associated process and science involved. Thus, I was led to the mythical Jessner peel. Max Jessner , the man who invented the solution used in the treatment.
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However, one thing I learned throughout the process was how much one peel can vary from the next depending on skin type, skin goals, and the specific acids used. Almost immediately, my initial assumption that chemical peels were one-size-fits-all and likely bound for tragedy was completely debunked—and I became a believer.
The experience also piqued my interest and inspired me to learn more about the different types of peels and the associated process and science involved. Thus, I was led to the mythical Jessner peel. Max Jessner , the man who invented the solution used in the treatment. Yet its true magic seems murky and vague upon research. So, with the help of holistic esthetician Biba de Sousa , the goal was to decode the Jessner peel once and for all. Meet the Expert Biba de Sousa is a celebrity esthetician and founder of the skincare line Biba.
She practices out of Los Angeles, CA. Keep reading for everything you never knew you needed to know. First, What Is It? So, before we trek into the nitty-gritty territory, here are the bare bones of it according to de Sousa: "The Jessner peel or the more commonly used modified Jessner peel is a safe, effective way of maintaining the skin and is also very effective on body parts, too.
This peel is often used to address things like crepey leg skin, pigmented backs, back acne, and more," she explains. The Jessner peel falls somewhere in the middle. First, she explains to me that salicylic acid is keratolytic in nature and therefore dissolves hardened skin cells within the epidermal aka outermost layer of the skin while lactic acid simultaneously adds a dose of hydration.
Then, resorcinol has historically been used in the Jessner formula thanks to its natural antiseptic properties. However, as of just recently, this is being modified. Instead, TCA trichloroacetic acid is being used, which is the most popular method of medium-depth peels, called modified Jessners. Retinol and other AHAs can also be added to modified Jessners, such as mandelic, azelaic, phytic, glycolic, and the like," says de Sousa.
The Jessner Difference Stocksy As mentioned earlier, the Jessner peel is a medium-depth peel, which is what separates it from its more superficial or deep counterparts. This kind of peel has to be left undisturbed without application of water or oil in the skin for a minimum of six to eight hours post-treatment to allow for the full benefit," de Sousa tells us.
On the other hand, de Sousa explains that more superficial peels require little to no downtime and no serious post-peel complications. Think sedation during application and up to eight weeks of prep time pre-peel. So, basically, they turn you into a vampire. We kid. Kind of. In the most simplistic of terms, de Sousa explains to me that the Jessner solution essentially deconstructs the top-most layer of the skin and, in turn, triggers an inflammatory response from the skin layers that sit below.
Ultimately, since our skin has a natural intuition to heal itself, this leads to the removal of actinic keratoses translation: sun damage and the improvement of minor hyperpigmentation, scarring, wrinkles, and elasticity. However, the main risks are skin blanching when peeling solution penetrates too deep in the skin because too many layers are being applied and exposure to UV radiation shortly after peeling, both of which can lead to hyperpigmentation," says de Sousa.
In other words, only ever go to a licensed professional, and make sure to follow pre- and post-care instructions to a T. I like to exfoliate with my sonic blade, where molecules of water are being burst by ultrasonic waves and hydration can supplement the skin.
This particular technique is my safeguard against the peel solution penetrating too fast, too deep, or in an uneven manner. After skin hydration, a layer of the peel is applied using gauze and swiped around the skin.
Medically, anyone allergic to salicylic acid this is commonly an allergy to aspirin or resorcinol is not to use this peel," de Sousa warns. Mind your pre- and post-treatment care. Clients should also avoid exposure to UV to the point of sunburn or antibiotic use for two weeks prior to your appointment. Water can push the solution deeper into the skin, and oil will neutralize the action of the peel. Sweating hot yoga, exercising and extreme temperature exposure should also be avoided for the first 24 hours.
During this time, only washing, hydrating, and applying sunscreen are allowed. Peeling is usually finished by day five, and after that, active ingredients are carefully reintroduced to the skincare regimen," says de Sousa. Pay attention to the time of year. As noted, the major complication of this peel is hyperpigmentation, and UV radiation is the main instigator. Related Stories.
Your skin will be red, swollen, and tight for the first 24 hours or so. After that, the swelling will go down and your skin will begin peeling. Your skin may darken or even develop brown patches during this time, but the spots rarely stay after the skin has healed. Once the skin begins peeling off, new smooth skin will be revealed. It can take five to seven days after a medium peel to develop new skin, and the redness can last for months in some cases. Generally, it will take 7—14 days to heal completely and see the full results of the peel. Your skin will continue to age with time and sun exposure; acne can create new scars; and you may develop new spots of hyperpigmentation.
Jessner Peeling 14% (Jessner Lösung)
Moisturize, Moisturize Moisturize!!! In some cases, the skin will have a temporary anesthesia or numbing effect. The skin may appear red or dark for several days while recovering from the peel. Breakouts may also occur after peeling. This reaction is normal and the breakout is due to the pores cleansing and bringing debris to the surface. Your skin should begin to balance out within a few weeks, leading to clearer and less oily skin.